SUSTAINABLE PEST MANAGEMENT & GREEN CONSTRUCTION June 10, 2024 0 1 We all want a healthier environment; organic foods, natural products, better air quality, clean water and fewer pesticides. No wonder many ask us if and how can pests be eliminated without using harmful pesticides. Along with green construction, sustainable pest control is achievable but does require a new way of thinking, planning and building. It also means a little more maintenance and using low-impact products and ecologically sound materials when necessary. In other words: “Working with nature rather than fighting it.” Green Construction: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Consult first with your architect, contractor and pest control operator to avoid creating or leaving existing conditions that lead to infestations. Good drainage in and around structures to prevent moisture intrusion and water pooling in crawl spaces Moisture membranes and concrete soil covers to keep sub-areas dry, clean and unwelcoming to pests Sufficient Ventilation in enclosed areas to prevent stagnant and unhealthy air leading to mildew and mold Adequate elevation and grading away from the structure to prevent earth-wood contacts and faulty grades Ample roof overhangs, flashings, gutters, downspouts and drain lines to prevent leaks and deterioration Proper flashing and joints around exterior doors, windows, siding and trim to prevent moisture intrusion Borate based pre-treatment (Bora-Care or Tim-Bor) of exposed wood and foundations before enclosures Complying with and exceeding state and local building ordinances for a healthier and safer home Sustainable Maintenance: “Use nature’s lessons and allies to your advantage”. Once completed discourage nature’s invaders and maintain the structure and its surroundings inhospitable to pests. Maintain the structure’s exterior siding and trim sealed, painted and watertight. Keep and trim vines, trees, shrubs and vegetation away to promote air movement and a dry environment Don’t pile, store, build or lay material, plants or added buildings against the exterior of the structure Keep sprinklers and other irrigation systems from watering against or near the structure. Don’t add planter beds, stone facia, brick veneer or raise soil grade against the exterior siding Keep ventilators unobstructed to promote air movement and replace torn ones to keep rodents out Clean and clear roofs, gutters, downspouts and drain lines, particularly during winter and spring Have your sump pumps, drain lines and plumbing checked and serviced to prevent leaks and moisture Keep all areas dry and clean to discourage common pests (ants, flies, beetles, fleas, termites, etc.) Know friends and chase away foes: Spiders, birds, lizards, and some beetles are all pest predators Use non-toxic traps or repellents to avoid secondary wildlife poisoning (e.g. birds of pray and reptiles) When using retail available products, always follow the label never exceeding recommendations Consult with a licensed professional before adding, remodeling or modifying any improvements Call to get a periodic pest inspection by a State Licensed Professional to discover infestations early Low Impact Pest Control: Nature is tenacious and in spite of the above recommendations it may still find ways to infest. Gone are the days of creosote, chlordane and such other pesticides that were common around homes. Decades of public awareness, research and development have lead to more target specific and safer products eliminating pests without affecting occupants, the local ecosystem or surrounding environment. THE BEST TERMITE TREATMENTS FOR YOU June 10, 2024 0 0 BUENA VISTA COMPANY aims to be at the forefront of environmentally safer and the most effective termite solutions. Years of experience, communication with the entomology departments of UC Berkeley and UC Riverside, customer feedback and record tracking help us to provide our customers with the most reliable treatments and the lowest impact on the environment. Termidor-SC has been used in California for both subterranean and drywood termites over 15 years, in the US, Canada and Europe for over 20 years and has a proven record as a reliable low-risk termiticide. Termidor is not systemic and does not affect plant life around your home. The active ingredient “Fipronil” is found in Frontline and Fiproguard pet products for flea control. Termidor is a non-repellent termiticide (no odor, fumes, color or taste) approved for both subterranean and drywood termites and has a transfer effect between termites through grooming and feeding (trophallaxis). Altriset is a newer generation of termiticide using anthranilic diamides (from the Ryania genius tree) with the lowest toxicity level of all termiticides. Altriset’s active ingredient “Chlorantaniliprole” is reported as having no effect on mammals (humans, pets, cattle, etc.) and not systemic with plants. Altriset is approved for subterranean termite treatments only and is a non-repellent termiticide (no odor, fumes, color or taste) and has a transfer effect between termites through grooming and feeding (trophallaxis). Unfortunatelly our record tracking shows more recalls for retreatment with Altriset and its effectivneess against subterrenean termites has proven to be inferior to Termidor. TimBor & BoraCare are a borate based insecticides/fungicides (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate) used in the US for over 20 years. Borate, borax and boric salts have been used as a food preservative, insecticide and fungicide for centuries. Boron is a natural earth deposit dating over 20 million ago. Over 50% of the world’s borate is produced in the mines of Boron California. Though lacking the transfer effect of Termidor and Altriset, TimBor and BoraCare are effective against drywood termites and wood-boring Beeltes as well as fungi/dry-rot infestation to wood members. They are not used against subterranean termite soil treatments, as they are also herbicides that can affect nearby plant life. Optigard-ZTis approved only for drywood termite and is an older generation of non-repellents used since the 90s. The active ingredient is using thiamethoxam, a neonicotinoid and its effectiveness against drywood termite has prooven inferior to Termidor-SC, TimBor and XT-2000. This product is systemic and should not be used around vegetable gardens and crops. XT-2000 is approved only for drywood termites and is an odorous repellent (d-limonene) extracted from the rind of citrus fruit. Commonly called orange oil, d-limonene is very acidic and should be applied cautionly as it may cause skin, eye and respiratory reactions. The product does not have a transfer effect between termites, is a repellent that can be detected by termites that will avoid it. Orange oil is not lasting once dry several days after application. Its effectiveness against drywood termites has proven to be inferior to Termidor-SC and TimBor. Some pest control companies will advocate orange oil as a marketing tool but always use it in conjunction with another product like Termidor or Timbor/BoraCare to lessen calls for retreatments against drywood termites. Premise-75 is approved for both subterranean and drywood termite and is an older generation of non-repellents used since the 90s. The active ingredient is using imidacloprid, a neonicotinoid and its effectiveness against drywood termite has prooven inferior to all other tested products (see table below). This product is systemic and should not be used around vegetable gardens and crops. Most pest control companies will prefer using another more reliable product against subterranean and drywood termites. Natural Oils: Other oil extracts from pine, juniper, clove, peppercorn and mint are all terpenes type oils similar to orange oil and have been tried against various insects including drywood termites with less than satisfactory results. Natural oil extracts are acidic and should be used cautiously with the proper protective equipment as they may cause eye, skin and respiratory problems. Natural oil extracts cannot be used as a soil treatment against subterranean termites as they can affect nearby soil and water tables with rains and landscape irrigation. Freezing, Heating, Microwaving: Temperature and electronic treatments against drywood termites have been attempted several times in the past and all have many limitations and less than satifactory results. Freezing cannot be used where plumbing pipes and other sensitive materials are present. Heating cannot be used where plastics and vinyl material are present nearby or within walls(vinyl windows, ABS, PVC, electrical/electronic cables) and Microwaving cannot be used where metal is present (nails, ties, anchors, electrical cables, etc.). Additionally the cost of freezing and heating a structure makes these alternatives too expensive against other conventional treatments and these are seldom used unless in a highly controlled environment for crops and wood based products in containers and kilns. Most Effective Termite Treatments: Termidor, Altriset, TimBor/BoraCare, Optiguard & Premise are non-repellents termiticides that do not have anysmell, taste or vapors, while X-2000 and other oil based terpenes have a smell, taste and emanate vapors that termites can detect and avoid. Only Termidor and Altriset have a transfer effect where contaminated termites pass the termiticide onto others through grooming & trophylaxis (mouth-to-mouth feeding). XT-2000 and other oil extracts are repellent-contact insecticide that does not have a transfer effect and do not remain effective once dry. Termidor is the most effective at eradicating an entire colony within a few days or weeks. Termidor is the only product effective against both subterranen and drywood termites that remains effective for years and provide a long lasting protection against termite infestations without any smell, vapors and short or long-term impact on the landscape and grounds surrounding your home. TERMITICIDE(ACTIVE INGREDIENT) PESTICIDELABEL TARGETTERMITES Smell/OdorScent/Vapor Type ofInsecticide TransferEffect Still Effective Once Dry Effect onPlants Drywood Termite Termidor-SC (Fipronil) Caution Subterranean& Drywood None Non-Repellent Yes Yes None 100% BoraCare/TimBor (Sodium Borate) Caution DrywoodOnly None Non-Repellent No Yes Toxic 98-99% Altriset (Chlorantiniliprole) None SubterraneanOnly None Non-Repellent Yes Yes None 93% * Optigard-ZT (Thiametoxam) Caution DrywoodOnly None Non-Repellent Yes Yes Systemic 81% XT-2000 (d-Limonene) Caution DrywoodOnly Yes Contact/Repellent No No Toxic 81% Premise 75 (Imidacloprid) Caution Subterranean & Drywood None Non-Repellent Yes Yes Systemic 45% *Termite Statistic – Other percentage statistics from Dr. Vernard Lewis, UC Berkeley & Dr. Michael Rust, UC Riverside 2009 Subterranean termites travel underground through cracks, voids and decaying tree roots. Studies show they branch out in multiple areas often infesting structures through multiple entry points at the perimeter of the structure, through slabs and in subareas. They feed on the wood and return the food to the underground nest. Because Termidor and Altriset have no smell, taste or color, termites do not detect or avoid it and are attracted to the moist treatment. Drywood termites feed and live in the wood without any ground contact. They too are attracted to the moist treatment when it is injected into the wood and do not avoid Termidor which has no taste, smell or fumes unlike other oil based inseticides like XT 2000 orange oil and other plant based terpenes. Conclusion: Termidor-SC is faster acting and longer lasting than other termiticides like TimBor/BorCare, Altriset, Optigard-ZT, XT-2000 and Premise-75. Termidor-SC remains a low impact termiticide most effective against both subterranean and drywood termites. CARPENTER BEES AND HORNTAIL WASPS June 10, 2024 0 0 It is Carpenter Bee season and this year more than often than last year, they are spotted buzzing around homes and back yards worrying many. But fear not, as Carpenter Bees are more a friend than a foe. There are over 500 species of Carpenter Bees (Xylocopa) that can be found throughout the world. In California and Marin the California Carpenter Bee (Xylocopa Californica) nest in trees and wooden structures. Carpenter Bees do not feed on wood like termites but forage on pollen like their common honeybee counterparts. They are easily recognized by their dark shiny charcoal black color with a beautiful well-rounded body. They are often noticed during the warm season from early spring to late fall when we see them flying around our structures and back yards busy preparing their nest for winter. Males are the same color and shape but do not have a stinger and never attack, while female carpenter bees do have a stinger but will only defend themselves and their nest when provoked. Nesting and Infestations: Carpenter Bees carve a large hole opening that leads to one main channel with several small alcove chambers each housing one egg. Six to 8 eggs are laid in the fall where they remain dormant all winter. The eggs will hatch and the bees will exit the wood the following spring. The eggs closest to the surface will exist first allowing the deepest laid eggs to hatch and exit last. To this day, it remains a great mystery to entomologists how the first eggs laid in the rear chambers are the last ones to hatch, while the last eggs laid will hatch first. Most homeowners will notice pencil like fine shavings (or frass) below the holes where the bees carve the wood to create their galleries and chambers within wood members. We often see them in trim boards, rafter tails, roof fascias, arbors, pergolas and other exposed wood members. Carpenter bees will infest any type of softwood including redwood and cedar wood members, Carpenter Bees are pollinators and contribute greatly to the local ecosystem. They are not considered a major structural pest like termites or wood boring beetles as homeowner usually find them annoying and will try to get rid of them before wood members can be severally damaged. They can also be often found in dead trees and woodpiles, fences, sheds, balconies and decks. Carpenter Bees are mostly solitary insects, sometimes living in small groups with mothers, daughters or related siblings living nearby but not sharing the same nest holes. Left alone they will not be aggressive and can become a fun or annoying distraction. Preventing and Eliminating Carpentar Bee Infestations: Carpenter Bees being indigenous to California, the best is to prevent infestations through preventative maintenance and treat when necessary. 1) Patch, caulk and paint or stain all exposed outside wood members (eaves, arbors, pergola, decks, balconies, etc.) to prevent infestation and deter re-infestation.. 2) Avoid stacking woodpiles against the siding of a home or even close to entry/exit ways. 3) Keep limbs, vines, bushes and vegetation away from roof, decks, fences, arbors and siding. 4) Seal cracks and openings in the eaves and siding, especially at pipes, cables and other protrusions. 5) Call a beekeeper to remove and relocate the infested wood member if possible, thereby allow bees to continue pollinating somewhere else. 6) Otherwise call us for a treatment to the galleries and plugging the holes with epoxy wood filler. We use epoxy over bondo type material that bees can remove to continue their business. Horntail Wasps The horntail wasps are rare in structures and at 1 to 1.5” inch long with an additional ¾” long stout ovipositor (egg-laying device) Horntail Wasps appear more ominous than they really are. There are about 20 species of Horntail Wasps form the Siricdae family and while adults do not eat wood, their larvae do. Some species have beautiful colors ranging from brightly color metallic blue to yellow, red and black. Some lay eggs into hardwood but most favor softwood such as pine. The infestation starts in dead and burned trees after a forest fire where the female likes to lay her eggs. Once the tree is harvested, cut into lumber and used in construction, the dormant eggs can hatch if the wood is not kiln dried to kill the eggs and larvae. The larvae will molt and the adults emerge several years later sometimes scaring occupants of a structure. Fortunately these insects don’t re-infest structures and no treatment is needed. When Horntail Wasps emerge they seek to go outside and homeowners should simply let them go out and caulk and paint the exit hole left behind. Call us at Sonoma County: (707) 838-629 | Marin County: (415) 258-8200 for additional information. MOISTURE IN AND AROUND HOMES June 10, 2024 0 0 After one of the wettest California years on record, the rain and winter season have show us what amount of rain Mother Nature can drop a lot of water in a short period. During the winter season and cold and wet winter months, we often forget about termites and other household pests unless we see them swarming or trailing inside our home. But rainfall can bring back dampness into crawlspaces, basements and interior wall voids. Particularly during winter months, but also during the spring moisture is a leading cause of ants, termites, wood boring beetles, dry rot and mildew or even mold in houses. While remaining inside, we often forget about clogged gutters, downspouts, surface drains and underground drain lines. When roof, gutters and downspouts are obstructed by tree debris and roofing granules, and when surface drain grates and underground drain lines are clogged with dirt or debris, this can cause water to pool around the structure and seep into basements, substructure areas and under concrete slabs.Water in and around a home can cause many problems. Here are a few examples of problems caused by inadequate drainage and excessive moisture: Seepage and dampness into substructure areas Surface water and damp substructure soil Fungus, mildew and mold in sub-areas, walls, floors and closets Deformation, rippling and buckling of hardwood floors Staining, musty smell and mildew in carpeting and vinyl flooring Rusting of earthquake anchors bolts, ties, nails and carpet strips Soil erosion and liquefaction around piers, foundations and slabs Settlement or foundations, slabs, patios, decks and concrete pads Bowed and slopping interior floors Door and window swelling preventing proper closing and operation Cracking in sheet rock covered walls and ceilings Gaps and voids around molding and trims at ceiling, windows and doors Surface water in contact with heating ducts and plenums Sump pumps overwhelmed or failing with too much seepage Rusting re-bars within foundations can cause concrete spalling Gutters overflowing and rotting eaves, rafter tails and siding Gutters and downspouts rusting more quickly and leaking Electrical cables corroding with surface water in sub-areas Data cables (TV, internet, alarm, etc.) failing or short-circuiting Plumbing pipes corroding and leaking with surface water and damp soil Wood boring beetles infesting damp substructure wood members Termites infesting wood members within sub-areas, floors and walls Argentine ants moving nests out of substructure soil to wall voids. Rodents moving from flooded substructure areas into walls and ceilings So the winter rainy season is great times to have your house inspected. Many of the issues mentioned above are not visible or discernible during the dry season and particularly during a drought year. During winter inspections we often discovered defective sump pumps, flooded heating ducts and heater plenums, electrical and data cables submerged in surface water or corroding on damp soil. An inspection can also reveal plumbing leaks, sewer lines discharging in sub-areas, disconnected or leaking heating ducts as well as leaking showers, toilet stools, sinks, refrigerators, washing machines and dyer vents. These along with wet, damp, sagging or downed insulation contribute to higher utility bills. With every inch of rainfall, the roof surface of a typical 1800 square foot home will discharge well over 1200 gallons of roof water against the foundation. Depending on the topography, soil condition and drainage installation seepage can vary greatly. With adequate drainage and ventilation, a typical substructure area should remain dry or experience minor soil dampness with no surface water pooling anywhere. But if drainage is insufficient or non-existent substructure areas can fill up quickly and remains flooded for weeks or even months. Moisture is the main cause for infestation and infection in homes. Insects and fungus need air, food and water to survive and will more likely infest and cause damage in homes with excessive moisture conditions. Water can come from above (gravity), from below (capillary), from thermal exchange (condensation) or a combination resulting in high moisture content inside homes. During cold winter months, bathroom windows are kept closed during and after showers adding more moisture to interiors. All this and moisture from surface water and wet soil in sub-areas can add over 47 quarts of humidity to the daily 20 quarts produced by a household of 4. Modern homes are well insulated and heaters cannot dry interiors and walls like older wood stoves and fireplaces did before. Moisture intrusion can come from cracks and voids to exterior wood and stucco walls, aging paint, siding, inadequate or missing flashing around windows, doors, exterior wood trim and protrusions. Leaking or incorrectly installed windows, doors and deck attachments can contribute to leaks and moisture intrusion. Older roof, flashing, gutters & downspouts can also cause leaks and moisture intrusion. Finally vegetation growth against the structure can raise humidity lasting for long periods in some areas. Health Risks and Hazards: Excessive moisture in homes can also cause health problems. Beyond smell and discomfort, allergies and some diseases are more prominent in a humid environment. Fungi infestation cause not just wood decay damage but mildew and mold inside but also in enclosed areas like cabinets, closets and wall voids. It also develop behind beds, furniture and beneath carpeting. Bathrooms, kitchens and the northern side of homes are more prone to fungal activity. Over time, some mildew and mold can carry airborne spores that may cause health hazards to some allergic persons. Maintenance: Owners should periodically check and report to the appropriate professionals surface water and rust stains, high humidity and damp smell, pest infestation as well as settlement cracks and damaged or deformed floors. Calling a trained and experienced licensed professional is the best way to prevent problems and obtain an expert’s recommendation. It is also important to observe the surrounding environment and location of the building that may subject the structure to adverse conditions. Prevention: Installing drainage within and around the structure is a must. At the very least, grading to slope away from the structure and downspouts should be fitted with extensions channeling water away from the structure, not just a few feet. Ideally underground downspout drain lines and French drains should take water to the street or a sump pump well and away from the foundations. Installing a vapor barrier on substructure soil will create a drier environment. But this will only work if drainage is adequate and functional. Periodically serviced and operational sump pumps are critical in areas where water accumulates below grade, such as in deep crawl spaces, basements and on low level grounds. Adequate insulation with proper ventilation will also help deter excessive moisture in crawlspaces and bathrooms. Aerating the interior and adequate ventilation is also critical in tight and enclosed areas such as closets and storage rooms. Properly flashed windows, doors and roofs are crucial as well as caulked and painted areas are also critical. Finally, all parts and equipment found in a home need periodic servicing and inspection. Conclusion: If it doesn’t look, feel or smell right… it probably isn’t! During the course of property maintenance, observe the grounds and structure. Keep your home dry and aerate interiors as often as possible. Along with treatments and repairs, winter is the perfect time to install vapor barrier installation and extensions to downspouts to improve moisture conditions and keep sub-areas dry. BUENA VISTA COMPANY has a licensed professional inspect your home. It is economically wise and may prevent costly repairs. Remember: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of correction. Maintain your property in good working condition, replace aging and failing components and have all critical equipment routinely checked and serviced by licensed or certified professionals. GREEN PEST CONTROL June 10, 2024 0 0 We all want a healthier environment; organic foods, natural products, better air quality, clean water, and fewer pesticides. No wonder many ask us if and how can pests be eliminated without using harmful pesticides. Along with green construction, sustainable pest control is achievable but does require a new way of thinking, planning and building. It also means a little more maintenance and using natural products, low-impact and ecologically sound materials when necessary. In other words: “Working with nature rather than fighting it.” Green Construction: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Consult first with your architect, contractor and pest control operator to avoid creating or leaving existing conditions that lead to infestations. Good drainage in and around structures to prevent moisture intrusion and water pooling in crawl spaces Moisture membranes and concrete soil covers to keep sub-areas dry, clean and unwelcoming to pests Sufficient Ventilation in enclosed areas to prevent stagnant and unhealthy air leading to mildew and mold Adequate elevation and grading away from the structure to prevent earth-wood contacts and faulty grades Ample roof overhangs, flashings, gutters, downspouts and drain lines to prevent leaks and deterioration Proper flashing and joints around exterior doors, windows, siding and trim to prevent moisture intrusion Borate based pre-treatment (Bora-Care or Tim-Bor) of exposed wood and foundations before enclosures Complying with and exceeding state and local building ordinances for a healthier and safer home Sustainable Maintenance: “Use nature’s lessons and allies to your advantage”. Once completed discourage nature’s invaders and maintain the structure and its surroundings inhospitable to pests. Maintain the structure’s exterior siding and trim sealed, painted and watertight. Keep and trim vines, trees, shrubs and vegetation away to promote air movement and a dry environment Don’t pile, store, build or lay material, plants or added buildings against the exterior of the structure Keep sprinklers and other irrigation systems from watering against or near the structure. Don’t add planter beds, stone facia, brick veneer or raise soil grade against the exterior siding Keep ventilators unobstructed to promote air movement and replace torn ones to keep rodents out Clean and clear roofs, gutters, downspouts and drain lines, particularly during fall, winter and spring Have your sump pumps, drain lines and plumbing checked and serviced to prevent leaks and moisture Keep all areas dry and clean to discourage common pests (ants, flies, beetles, fleas, termites, etc.) Know friends and chase away foes: Spiders, birds, lizards, and some beetles are all pest predators Use non-toxic traps or repellents to avoid secondary wildlife poisoning (e.g. birds of pray and reptiles) When using retail available products, always follow the label never exceeding recommendations Consult with a licensed professional before adding, remodeling or modifying any improvements Call to get a periodic pest inspection by a State Licensed Professional to discover infestations early Low Impact Pest Control: Nature is tenacious and in spite of the above recommendations it may still find ways to infest. Gone are the days of creosote, chlordane and such other pesticides that were common around homes. Decades of public awareness, research and development have lead to more target specific and safer products eliminating pests without affecting occupants, the local ecosystem or surrounding environment. BUENA VISTA COMPANY recommends following the above recommendations first and uses the following products once infestations do occur: Natural inorganics (Bora-Care, TimBor, clays, diatomaceous earth, salts), colorless and odorless non-repellents (Termidor & Altriset) that have no effect on plant life and minimal impact on the environment. ORANGE OIL FACTS VS OTHER TERMITICIDES June 10, 2024 0 0 On-going ads by some tout “Orange Oil” as “The Green” treatment alternative against termites. So is orange oil a viable alternative or is it just another new marketing ploy painting the planet orange, green, blue or any other color of the rainbow with catchy ads? How does orange oil compare to other known and new treatments and is it truly effective and reliable? History and Facts: The citrus industry produces many bi-products from concentrates to compounds used in foods, cosmetics, chemicals and other areas. The rind acid of citrus fruit is mechanically, steamed or chemically extracted to produce d-Limonene (C10H16 ), a hydrocarbon oil (terpene) also found in conifer and some other plants. The orange oil extract (OOE) is used as fragrance, solvents or dispersing agents found in various products from candles to paint stripper, cleaners, detergents, shampoo, sprays and some insecticides. Orange oil extracts are used mostly as mild repellents against fleas, mites and mosquitoes. Orange Oil and Termite Treatment: Orange oil is a liquid that is pressure injected into the wood by drilling many 3/8″ holes into the wood in a V or X pattern every 2.5″ to 5″ apart. The key to using orange oil is getting enough product into the wood to absorb and travel through termite channels so it is critical to inject an ample amount. Orange is very acidic and will damage painted and varnished wall surfaces, wallpaper, fabric and other items, so it is critical the technician performing the treamtent be very careful and cover furniture, flooring and wall coverrings. Orange oil has a smell that we like, but the termites don’t thorough treatment is or any surviging termites will move to other areas and avoid the treated wood. Since the orange oil evaporates and becomes less effective after it has dried, any exposed adjacent wood members should be treated with a borate material such as TimBor or BoraCare to provide a residual effect. Orange oil should not be used with non-repellent products like Termidor or Altriset which are engineered to be tasteless & ordorless. Using orange oil with Termidor and Altriset defeats the purpose of using a non-repellent product that termites won’t avoid. Orange oil is very acidic so caution is necessary to avoid skin, eye and mouth contact. Effectiveness of orange oil: Lab test from UC Berkeley, UC Davis and UC Riverside’s Entomology Departments show that d-Limonene has a very short afterlife of only 2 to 3 days and lacks a residual effect to kill and prevent termites from reinfesting treated areas. Orange oil application does not work in soil treatment against Subterranean Termites, even as a repellent due to its short life. Additionally, it lacks the transfer effect from contaminated termites to pass on the toxicity of the product to other members of the colony and the termite queen who may survive and keep the colony alive. When applied directly to wood against Drywood Termites it is critical that a sufficient amount of oil reaches each and every termite or the colony will survive and continue feeding on wood members of the house. There is no current technology to know if all termites have been killed so companies who treat with orange oil also recommend application of another long lasting termiticide such as Tim-Bor or Bora-Care. Comparison results of independant lab controlled tests from the universities and pest control professionals show that local orange oil treatment is less performant than Termidor-SC, Bora-Care or Tim-Bor, particularly over a long period of time. Local Treatment Percent Death after 3 Months Smell/Odor Sent/Vapor Type of Insecticide Transfer Effect Between Termites Residual Effect After Treatment Altriset * 100% No Non-Repellent Yes Yes Termidor-SC 100% No Non-Repellent Yes Yes Tim-Bor 99% No Non-Repellent No Yes Bora-Care 98% No Non-Repellent No Yes Optigard ZT 81% Yes Non-Repellent Yes Yes XT-2000 81% Yes Contact/Repellent No No Premise Foam 41% No Non-Repellent Yes Yes Water Only 6% No N/A No No Untreated 3.3% N/A N/A N/A N/A SOURCE: Dr. Vernard Lewis, UC Berkeley & Dr. Michael Rust, UC Riverside For additional information and details on the study and results visit the UC-Berkeley * Altriset is the first and only registered termiticide without a warning label and classified as “reduced-risk” under the US EPA Orange Oil vs. Fumigation:The Structural Pest Control Board of Californiastates that “orange oil is another localized treatment tool… against the elusive drywood termite. It is not an alternative to all-encompassing methods of treatment” such as fumigations (SPCB Newsletter). Like Termidor-SC, Bora-Care and Tim-Bor, orange oil treatments entails injection and/or surface treatment of infested wood members. Sulfuryl fluoride has been researched and effectively used for decades with very strict and controlled procedures and specific safety measures, all reviewed and supervised by the California Structural Pest Control Board, the Department of Pesticide Regulations and the Environment Protection Agency. Each year, thousands of structures (homes, apartments, schools, shopping malls, public buildings, silos, factories, railroad cars, etc.) are fumigated in the US and Canada when local treatments are not feasible. Fumigation does require vacating the structure, but it is a sure method of erradicating all drywood termites from the structure. Like orange oil, its greatest advantage is also its greatest weakness; no residual effect to prevent termites from re-infesting. For additional comparison between orange oil and fumigation treatments check: http://www.ywfumigation.com/images/vs.pdf . Orange Oil vs. Termidor-SC and Other Termiticides: Like plant pyrethrins or synthetic pyrethroids, orange oil is another contact insecticide. The effectivness and smell last only 2 to 3 days and the treatment has no long lasting residual effect against remaining termites or to prevent termites from re-infesting treated areas. The challenge is to kill all termites on contact, including the queen or the colony will survive. This is very hard to do since the technician does not know where all colony members and the queen are located. Orange oil does not have a chemical transfer effect from one termite to another such as Termidor or Altriset (non-repellent) nor does it have any lasting effect such as as Termidor, Altriset, Bora-Care or Tim-Bor to contaminate other termites or keep termites from re-infesting treated areas. Given the analysis and results above and our experience of many treatments in wood frame homes, we prefer and recommend using Termidor-SC, Altriset, BoraCare or TimBor for a more effective and long lasting treatment. Orange Oil & Health Hazards:Orange Oil may stain wall coverings and wood surfaces and should be applied carrefully. As a citrus bi-product, orange oil appears to be a green alternative. However its health hazard may not be limited to termites. The volatile citrus oil is a repellent to pets and can cause some humans and pets to experience allergies and some breathing difficulties, particularly among asthmatics and citrus allergic subjects with Pantothenic Acid (or Vitamin B-5) deficiency. Though it is labelled low toxicity, 92% pure d-limonene is still not approved for retail sale and results from renound organizations such as the IPCS and EPA indicate that, whether inhaled, oral or dermal, health hazards due to acute (high dose) or chronic (repeated) exposure do exist. Studies and analysis indicate that orange oil (d-limonene) should be handled like other low-toxicity insecticide (just like Tim-Bor, Bora-Care and Termidor-SC) and used with caution. In doubt, consult your doctor prior to any treatment and inform your pest operator of any allergies you may have to avoid any reactions. An alternative is to use odorless products such as Bora-Care, Tim-Bor or Termidor-SC. Conclusion: In spite of its “green and eco-friendly” marketing appeal, orange oil is not a reliable and absolute solution to completely erradicate all drywood termites. Its just another insecticide with its limitations for local treatments. But studies show that orange oil, even at high concentration, it is not as effective or long lasting as other commonly used termiticides at eliminating termite colonies, particularly in hidden and hard to reach areas. Some companies continue to promote orange oil because of its great ecological and marketing appeal but they use it in conjunction with other termiticides due to its limitations. We have tried several orange oil applications and due to its low efficiency and lack of long term effectiveness, we have observed better local treatments results with Altriset, TimBor, Bora-Care andTermidor-SC without odors and without vacating your home. In addition to the effectiveness of the treatment, the thoroughness of the application and the quality of the work performed by the applicator is what matters and is most important to erradicate an infestation. FREQUENT TERMITE QUESTIONS June 10, 2024 0 0 Where do termites come from? The word “termite” comes from the latin “termes” & “tarmit” and from the greek “tetranien”, meaning “a worm eating wood”. Fossils of winged termites (alates) dating back to the Creataceous period (125 million years ago) have been found in China, Labrador, Australia, Africa and South America. Some drywood termites were also found in amber (fossilized tree sap) in the Baltics. How often should I have my house checked for infestations?Depending on the age, location and configuration of the structure, you should request an inspection every two to four years. It’s long enough for a experienced and licensed inspector to detect any visible evidence of infestation and not too long to allow structural pests (termites, wood boring beetles and fungi) to create significant structural damage. Check also our FAQs page for tips on preventing termite infestations. Why do termites swarm and when? Swarms occur when some workers and soldiers mature into winged females and males (alates). They instinctively fly away to mate and start new colonies. Different species will swarm at various times and seasons. In Marin County, Subterranean termites mostly swarm on warm and humid spring days, while drywood termites tend to swarm in the heat of summer. Dampwood termites generally swarm in fall. What’s the biggest termite? At 60 feet, the world’s largest termite is the inflatable Termidor termite used as a traveling education and information center (see NPR report). Joking aside, it is unclear what is the biggest live termite. Many species compete for this title like the Australian Termite (Mastotermes darwiniensis) and the Arboreal Termite (Nasutitermes corniger) found in Central America and New Guinea. The Pacific Dampwood Termite (Zootermopsis angusticollis), which at 30mm with wings (15mm without) is among the largest, can be found right here in Marin and Sonoma Counties. How many kinds of termites are there?According to the University of Toronto, there are over 2761 species of termites within 282 generae. In northern California the most common families of species are1) “Reticultermes hesperus” (Rhinotermitidae) or Western Subterranean Termite2) “Incistermes minor” (Kalotermitidae) or Dark Western Drywood Termite, and3) “Zootermopsis Angusticollis” (Hodotermitidae) or Pacific Dampwood Termite What is a Xylophaous Insect?It is an insect that feeds on wood and wood biproducts (paper, cardboard, partical board, plywood, etc.). Termites and wood boring beetles are xylophagous insects, while carpenter ants and carpenter bees are not. Thoug Carpenter ants infest wood members, they do not feed on wood but rather carve wood members for shelter. Ants feed on starches, sugars and other honeydew like products. Can you tell a Termite from a Carpenter Ant? It can be hard to differentiate a swarming termite (alate) from a winged carpenter ant. You’re not alone because it is not easy given the many varieties of termites and ants out there. Here are a few critical differences that are fairly easy to spot with a naked eye… and the help of a small magnifying glass. Still! Don’t forget to check with a California Licensed Professional Inspector. Ants: Elbowed antennae, narrow waists, separate thorax and abdomen, different size wings, longer legs. Termites: Straight antannae, thick waists, continuous thorax and abdomen, same size wings, shorter legs. Are you isopterophobic?Isopterophobia is the fear of wood eating insects (termites, beetles, fungus, carpenter ants etc.). Though termites are annoying when they swarm and may appear repulsive to some, they don’t sting or bite and only feed on wood and cellulose bi-products (paper, cardboard, glue, starches, etc.). Termites belong to the “isoptera” order and isopterophobes don’t necessarily fear termites attacking them but rather the damage they can do to their homes. FYI: Fear of all insects is called entomophobia (from entomology the studies of insects). TERMITE TRIVIA June 10, 2024 0 0 Here are a few common questions our homeowners and real estate agents frequently ask. Bait stations vs. Perimeter Treatments – What’s best? We don’t use bait stations given their limited effectiveness and notorious rate of failure. Why invite the termites for dinner? Given the size of the bait, they’ll likely find the house before the bait stations. We tried many treatments and have found Termidor termiticide to be the most effective against subterranean termites. Since September 2000 we have been using Termidor termiticide and have had 100% success to this date. It’s treat and forget! Plus there are no quarterly service fees and we offer a 5 year warranty with Termidor perimeter treatments. Tenting/Fumigation – Are there any residual effects? Vikane Sufuryl Fluoride is a non-residual gas and it is used to deplete the structure of oxygen. Once the fumigation is completed, the tarps are removed, the structure is vented with fans for 24 hours and tested to verify that the structure is cleared and certified for re-occupancy. For more information and the MSDS check the Dow website for Vikane or the EPA’s webpage on Sulfuryl Fluoride. Is Termidor dangerous to my family and pets? The active ingredient in Termidor termiticide is “Fipronil” the same reformulated ingredient that can be found in some of the flea control pet products. When applied for termite treatment, Termidor is injected into the ground, under patios/walkways and/or onto soil infested areas hard to reach (in sub areas and beneath decks /stairs). The product has no odor scent or taste and is unknowingly picked up by termites making it so effective. For more information and the MSDS check the website for Termidor. Termites are flying in my house! Why and what should I do? Termites swarm to start new colonies. Sometimes they unknowingly swarm indoors, but the environment is not conducive to their survival and they will shortly die. Call us for a thorough inspection to determine what is the best treatment and to determine if there is any structural damage to your home. During the inspection, and depending upon the type of termite, we’ll gladly share some tips on what can be done until the treatment is performed. How can I get rid of dry rot/wood decay damage? Dry rot is caused by a fungus decaying the structural integrity of wood. Aside from repairing or replacing the damaged wood members, there is no easy way to remove dry rot damage. If fungus is present on the wood surface and damage has not yet occurred, the best is to immediately apply a registered fungicide and prevent moisture intrusion and/or retention with use of proper flashing, moisture proofing and/or wood preservatives. Call us for a professional inspection and we will provide you with a quality report and specific recommendations. How do I know if I have wood boring beetles in my house? There are many varieties of wood boring beetles, each with different infestation habits and some may be difficult to detect and identify, particularly to the untrained eye. Generally beetles are rarely seen but their damage is more evident with dust falling from wood members. Tenting and fumigation may be the best treatment, however sometimes a local treatment will suffice. The best course of action is to obtain a professional inspection and report with the appropriate recommendation. How can I prevent termites from infesting my home? Termites are part of the ecosystem and do serve a purpose; they return dead and dying trees back to the earth. That’s fine in the forest but not in our homes. Here are a few tips and actions that will help against termite infestation: Grade soil away from the home to remove any earth-wood contacts. Fix any plumbing leaks, especially in the bathrooms, the kitchen, laundry room and crawl spaces. Patch, seal and paint all areas subject to moisture intrusions (showers, windows, doors, exterior walls…) Keep the exterior siding well caulked, sealed and painted. Check with a Geotechnical Engineer for any drainage problems. Store goods and wood material without any direct ground contact. Clear sub areas and crawl spaces beneath your house and keep decks free of wood and tree debris. Call us and have periodic limited inspections every 3 to 4 years.
